Why is black women’s hair so hard to grow? (part 1)

Black Women’s Hair Deserves Unwavering Love and Understanding

There's a persistent, often painful, narrative that black women's hair is "hard to grow". It’s a statement steeped in misunderstanding and, frankly, a lack of scientific appreciation for the unique, intricate beauty of Afro-textured hair.

Your hair is not "hard to grow"; it possesses a distinct structural integrity and thrives under specific care, just like any other hair type. The perception of "difficulty" often stems from a complex interplay of genetic predispositions, specific hair care practices, environmental factors, and underlying health conditions that disproportionately affect Black women, leading to certain types of hair loss that can indeed hinder apparent length retention and density.

The Intricate Beauty of Afro-Textured Hair

Afro-textured hair is a marvel of natural engineering, characterized by its tightly curled or coiled structure. This distinct morphology sets it apart from Caucasian or Asian hair types. Unlike straight or wavy hair, which tends to have an oval or round cross-section, Afro-textured hair follicles produce hair shafts with an elliptical or flattened cross-section. This unique shape, combined with frequent twists and turns along the hair shaft, creates more points of weakness and potential breakage.

Imagine a spiral staircase; each step is a point where the structure could be vulnerable if not properly supported. Similarly, the numerous helical twists and turns in each strand of Afro-textured hair mean that the cuticle, the hair's protective outer layer, is often less uniformly laid flat compared to straight hair. This can make the hair more prone to tangling, dryness, and mechanical damage, as the natural oils from the scalp struggle to travel down the highly coiled strand.

When the hair breaks at these vulnerable points, it gives the impression that the hair isn't growing, when in fact, it is growing from the scalp at the same rate as other hair types, but retention of that length is challenged by breakage.

Common Hair Loss Conditions Affecting Black Women: Unmasking the Culprits

While hair grows from all individuals, regardless of ethnicity, certain forms of hair loss are indeed more prevalent or present differently in individuals of African descent. Understanding these conditions is crucial for effective management and to shift the narrative from "hard to grow" to "needs targeted care."

1. Central Centrifugal Cicatricial Alopecia (CCCA): A Scarring Journey 

CCCA is perhaps one of the most significant and distressing hair loss conditions disproportionately affecting Black women. It is a primary cicatricial (scarring) alopecia that typically begins on the crown or central scalp and spreads outwards. Unlike non-scarring alopecias where hair follicles are preserved and can regrow hair, in CCCA, the hair follicles are progressively destroyed and replaced by scar tissue. This irreversible damage means hair cannot grow back in the affected areas.

The exact cause of CCCA is complex and not fully understood, but it is thought to involve a combination of genetic predisposition and environmental factors. There's evidence of autosomal dominant inheritance in some Black South African families, suggesting a strong genetic component. Historically, certain hair care practices, such as chemical relaxers, hot oils, and excessive traction from tight hairstyles, have been implicated as contributing factors, potentially by inducing inflammation around the hair follicle. While these practices may not be direct causes, they can certainly exacerbate underlying inflammation and predispose individuals with genetic susceptibility to developing CCCA. The inflammation, if chronic, can lead to the follicular destruction characteristic of scarring alopecia.

2. Traction Alopecia (TA): The Strain of Style 

Traction alopecia is another common form of hair loss in Black women, resulting from prolonged or repetitive tension on the hair follicles. This condition is directly linked to cultural styling practices such as tight braids, weaves, extensions, dreadlocks, and even tight ponytails. The constant pulling can damage the hair follicle, leading to inflammation and, over time, permanent hair loss and scarring if the traction continues. Early signs include small, broken hairs around the hairline, redness, itching, and tenderness of the scalp. While initially non-scarring and reversible with a change in styling habits, chronic traction can lead to permanent follicular damage and cicatricial alopecia, meaning hair will not regrow.

3. Androgenetic Alopecia (AGA) / Female Pattern Hair Loss (FPHL): Hormonal and Genetic Influences 

Female Pattern Hair Loss (FPHL), also known as androgenetic alopecia (AGA), is the most common type of hair loss in women globally, including Black women. It is characterized by a progressive shortening of the hair growth phase (anagen) and miniaturization of hair follicles, converting thick, terminal hairs into fine, vellus hairs. This leads to diffuse thinning, often most noticeable on the central scalp. While often associated with androgens (male hormones), the exact role of androgens in FPHL in women is complex and not fully understood, but it's clear that hormones have a significant impact on the hair cycle. Genetics play a crucial role in FPHL, with a family history increasing susceptibility.

4. Acquired Trichorrhexis Nodosa: The Brittle Truth 

Acquired trichorrhexis nodosa (ATN) is a common hair shaft disorder seen in Afro-textured hair, characterized by nodes along the hair shaft where the cuticle is disrupted and the cortex is fractured. This leads to a weak point where the hair breaks easily, resulting in short, broken hairs. ATN is typically caused by chemical trauma (e.g., relaxers, dyes), excessive heat styling, or harsh mechanical grooming practices. The hair grows, but it fractures before it can achieve significant length, again contributing to the perception of "no growth."

Hair Care Practices: A Double-Edged Sword

Hair is a deeply rooted component of identity and culture for Black women. From historical significance to personal expression, hair care practices are often an integral part of this cultural heritage. However, some traditional or common practices, while culturally significant, can unfortunately contribute to hair damage and loss if not executed with extreme care and understanding of Afro-textured hair's unique vulnerabilities.

• Chemical Treatments: Relaxers, often used to straighten tightly coiled hair, permanently alter the hair's protein structure. Repeated application, especially if overlapping previously relaxed hair, can lead to breakage, chemical burns on the scalp, and can exacerbate underlying conditions like CCCA. While some studies on hair dye and relaxer use and adverse birth outcomes did not find increased risk of preterm birth or low birth weight, this does not negate their potential for hair damage.

• Heat Styling: Frequent use of high heat from flat irons, curling irons, and blow dryers can strip the hair of moisture and damage the cuticle, leading to brittleness and breakage, contributing to acquired trichorrhexis nodosa.

• Tight Protective Styles: While intended to protect hair, styles that apply excessive tension, such as very tight braids, weaves, and extensions, can lead to traction alopecia. The weight of extensions, particularly, can stress the hair follicles.

• Product Use and Scalp Health: Research shows that dandruff and scalp discomfort are common concerns for women with Afro-textured hair, often due to irregular hair washing and frequent use of oil-based products on the scalp. This creates an environment conducive to the growth of Malassezia spp. and bacteria, contributing to dandruff and itchiness. Weekly hair washing is recommended for long-term management of these issues, highlighting the importance of proper cleansing for scalp health. A healthy scalp is foundational for healthy hair growth.

Underlying Health and Nutritional Factors: A Holistic View

Beyond genetics and styling, systemic health issues and nutritional deficiencies can significantly impact hair growth for all women, including Black women.

• Diabetes: A prospective cohort study of African American women found an association between Type 2 Diabetes and severe central scalp hair loss. While previous studies on this link were limited by small participant numbers and cross-sectional design, this larger longitudinal study helps elucidate the temporal association. This suggests a potential metabolic link that warrants further investigation.

  
  

• Thyroid Dysfunction: Both hyperthyroidism and hypothyroidism can lead to widespread hair shedding, impacting the hair growth cycle. Thyroid hormones are crucial for regulating hair growth, differentiation, and metabolism. Given that thyroid disorders are common, especially in women, it's a vital factor to consider when hair loss is a concern.

  
  

• Nutritional Deficiencies: A balanced diet is critical for hair health. Deficiencies in vitamins and minerals can lead to hair loss.

  
  

• Iron Deficiency: Iron deficiency, with or without anemia, is a common cause of hair loss, particularly telogen effluvium and female pattern hair loss. Studies have shown a high prevalence of nutritional deficiencies, including iron, among Indian participants with hair loss. While these sources refer to Indian populations, the underlying biological need for iron for hair growth is universal.

  
  

• Vitamins (A, B, D) and Minerals (Zinc, Selenium): While essential in appropriate amounts, both deficiencies and excessive intake of certain nutrients like Vitamin A and selenium can contribute to hair loss. Biotin, often touted for hair growth, rarely shows true deficiency in those with hair loss, and high doses can interfere with lab tests. Zinc deficiency can also impact hair growth.

  
  

• Stress: Psychological stress can significantly disrupt the hair growth cycle, leading to premature entry into the resting phase. Cortisol, the "stress hormone," has been shown to inhibit hair growth. The societal and psychological burden of hair loss itself can create a vicious cycle of stress and further hair shedding, particularly given the cultural significance of hair for Black women.

  
  

The UNWYLD Approach: Confidence, Care, and Celebration

At UNWYLD, we believe that understanding is the first step towards empowerment. Black women's hair is not inherently "hard to grow." Rather, it requires specific knowledge, diligent care, and attention to potential underlying health factors. The challenges often faced are a result of its unique structure combined with practices that, without proper modification, can lead to damage over time.

Read More:

Why is black women’s hair so hard to grow? (part 2)

Why is black women’s hair so hard to grow? (part 3)

Selected References

1. Wise, L.A., et al. (2019) ‘Association of type 2 diabetes with central-scalp hair loss in a large cohort study of African American women’, Environmental Research, 176, p. 108502.

2. Ogunleye, T.A., McMichael, A. and Olsen, E.A. (2014) ‘Central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia: what has been achieved, current clues for future research’, Dermatologic Clinics, 32(2), pp. 173–181.

3. Hasan, R., et al. (2022) ‘Effects of Hormones and Endocrine Disorders on Hair Growth’, Cureus, 14(12), p. e32726.

4. Almohanna, H.M., Ahmed, A.A., Tsatalis, J.P. and Tosti, A. (2019) ‘The Role of Vitamins and Minerals in Hair Loss: A Review’, Dermatology and Therapy, 9(1), pp. 51–70.

5. Fajuyigbe, D., et al. (2024) ‘Weekly hair washing: The recommended solution for women with afro-textured hair to alleviate dandruff and scalp discomfort’, Journal of Dermatology, 51(4), pp. 518–525.