FAQ

Girl, let’s talk about the magic that is Afro-textured hair! It’s truly one-of-a-kind, and understanding its distinct features is the foundation of healthy hair care. Unlike straight or wavy hair, Afro-textured hair has a unique elliptical or flattened shape, which gives it that beautiful, tight curl or coil pattern. Think of it like a ribbon – when it's flat, it naturally curls more. This shape is why our hair tends to have more bends and twists along each strand.

These curls aren't just for show; they're formed because of how the hair grows from your scalp. The hair follicles themselves are curved, which literally shapes the hair as it grows. This curvature means our hair often has fewer cuticle layers (the protective outer shell of the hair) in some areas, especially at the bends and twists. This can make it more prone to dryness and breakage because moisture escapes more easily and the strands can rub against each other more. The studies confirm that African American hair tends to experience damage closer to the root, unlike Caucasian and Asian hair which typically see damage at the ends.

We often talk about "curl patterns," and while dermatologists are still catching up with a formal system, our community has widely adopted these classifications (like 3A, 4B, etc.) to help communicate about hair care and products. These systems, though developed by us, actually have the potential to help professionals understand and even predict hair loss issues better. It’s about time medical practice caught up with our wisdom!

So, embracing your unique curl pattern means understanding its strengths and its needs. It’s naturally voluminous, incredibly versatile for styling, but it does require a little extra love and attention to keep it moisturised and strong.

This is a hot topic, right? There’s so much conflicting advice out there, but the science is getting clearer. While some believe that washing hair less often is better, research shows that frequent washing can actually lead to a healthier scalp and better-looking hair, especially for Afro-textured hair.

When you don't wash your hair often enough, sebum (your scalp’s natural oil) can build up. This sebum, along with other particles, can create an environment that leads to issues like dandruff, itchiness, and even blocked hair follicles. Studies have shown that a lower wash frequency is linked to more "bad hair days," greasy appearance, and increased scalp problems. Daily washing can significantly reduce scalp oils, improve flaking, and even reduce scalp odour. It doesn't strip your hair of beneficial internal lipids, either. So, it’s not about stripping, it’s about balancing and cleansing!

For many Black women, washing hair less frequently has been a common practice due to styling challenges or cultural beliefs. However, embracing a more regular washing routine can lead to significant improvements in both scalp and hair health, reducing issues like seborrheic dermatitis (SD).

Our Recommendation.

Don’t be afraid to experiment to find the right balance for your hair, but know that more frequent washing isn't something to fear; it's a pathway to better scalp health and hair retention.

For most coily and curly hair types, washing every 7-14 days is a healthy balance. Over-washing can strip your hair of its natural protective oils (sebum), leading to dryness. If you work out frequently or have a looser curl pattern, you might prefer a co-wash (washing with a natural, silicone-free conditioner) mid-week to refresh your hair without stripping it.

Protective styles like braids, cornrows, and ponytails are staples in our community, offering amazing versatility and beauty. They can protect your hair from daily manipulation and environmental damage, allowing for growth and length retention. However, the truth is, how these styles are installed and maintained makes all the difference.

If styles are too tight, they can cause a condition called Traction Alopecia (TA), which is hair loss from constant pulling. This is a significant concern for Black women, and it's unfortunately a very common cause of hair loss. Studies show that cornrows, for example, were significantly linked to traction alopecia in African American girls. Tight buns, braids with extensions, and weaves are also known culprits.

The early stages of TA are reversible, which is why awareness is so crucial. Messages like "tolerate pain from a hairstyle and risk hair loss" and "no braids or weaves on relaxed hair" are powerful because they highlight the direct link between tension and potential permanent damage. We need to educate ourselves and others, especially young people, about these risks. It's about finding styles that celebrate your beauty without compromising your hair health. Your protective style should never cause pain!

Chemical relaxers and hot tools like hot combs are long-standing practices in Black hair care, often used to achieve straight styles. However, honest conversations about their impact on hair health are essential.

Chemical relaxers work by changing the structure of your hair, essentially breaking down and rearranging the protein bonds to make your curls permanently straight. This process uses highly alkaline chemicals that can leave the hair with a very high pH, and if left on too long, can severely damage or "digest" the hair. This chemical alteration makes Afro-textured hair more sensitive and prone to breakage and other side effects. Frequent use of chemical relaxers, especially when combined with styles that put tension on the hair, increases the risk of traction alopecia.

Similarly, hot combs and other heat styling tools can cause hair breakage and damage, especially when used frequently. Heat can weaken the hair shaft, leading to dryness and susceptibility to breakage.

Beyond physical damage, there's growing concern about the chemicals in these products. Hair relaxers have been linked to an increased risk of uterine cancer, particularly with long-term, heavy use. While some studies on breast cancer risk have shown no clear association with relaxer use overall, the continued scrutiny emphasizes the need for caution and further research.

Our goal isn't to shame or dictate your choices, but to provide the truth. These practices can impact your hair's physical integrity and potentially your long-term health. Knowing this empowers you to make informed decisions about how often you use them, if at all, and to seek out safer alternatives.

"Tender-headedness" is a term many of us grew up hearing, and it perfectly describes that painful sensitivity of the scalp, especially when hair is being combed, brushed, or styled. It's more than just a slight discomfort; it can be a significant pain point for children and adults with Afro-textured hair.

While the exact causes are still being researched, it's often linked to the unique structure of Afro-textured hair and common styling practices. Tight hairstyles, frequent manipulation, and even the natural dryness of our hair can contribute to scalp sensitivity and inflammation. When hair is pulled taut, it puts stress on the hair follicles and the skin, which can lead to pain.

Dermatologists are increasingly encouraged to use culturally relevant language like "tender-headedness" to better address these concerns in Black patients. Knowing that you're not alone, and that this is a recognised issue, is the first step towards finding solutions that soothe your scalp and protect your strands.

Hair loss can be a deeply personal and distressing experience, often impacting identity and confidence for Black women. There are several types that commonly affect us, and understanding them is key to effective management:

1. Traction Alopecia (TA): As we discussed, this is caused by repetitive pulling or tension on the hair follicles from tight hairstyles like braids, ponytails, cornrows, and weaves. It often appears as hair thinning or loss along the hairline, temples, or nape of the neck. The good news? In its early stages, TA can be reversible if the damaging practices are stopped. It's crucial to choose looser styles, give your hair "rest days" from tension, and be gentle during detangling. Public education and awareness, particularly for adolescents, are vital to prevent its progression.
   

2. Central Centrifugal Cicatricial Alopecia (CCCA): This is a type of scarring hair loss that primarily affects the crown of the scalp, spreading outwards. It's more common in African American women and is often linked to chronic inflammation of the hair follicles. While the exact cause isn't fully understood, practices like chemical relaxers and heat styling are thought to contribute. Diagnosis often requires a biopsy. Management focuses on reducing inflammation and preventing further scarring, often involving anti-inflammatory medications and sometimes minoxidil.
   

3. Female Pattern Hair Loss (FPHL): Also known as androgenetic alopecia, this is a genetic condition that causes diffuse thinning across the top of the scalp. While often associated with aging, its prevalence varies by ethnicity and can start earlier for some. For Black women, FPHL can present differently, and it’s important to distinguish it from CCCA. Treatments often include topical minoxidil, which can stimulate regrowth in 30-40% of patients with consistent use. Newer treatments and higher concentrations are being explored.
   

4. Alopecia Areata (AA): This is an autoimmune condition where the body's immune system mistakenly attacks hair follicles, leading to sudden, patchy hair loss. It can affect the scalp or any hair-bearing area. Stress can sometimes precede symptoms. Management varies but can include topical or injected corticosteroids, or other immunomodulating therapies.
   

5. Telogen Effluvium (TE): This is a temporary hair shedding condition often triggered by significant physical or emotional stress, illness, hormonal changes (like pregnancy or thyroid dysfunction), or nutritional deficiencies. It usually resolves on its own once the underlying cause is addressed. Thyroid hormones are strongly linked to hair growth, so thyroid imbalances can lead to widespread hair shedding. Iron deficiency is common in females, but its direct link to FPHL or CTE (Chronic Telogen Effluvium) is debated, so it’s important to get tested if you suspect a deficiency.
   

For any type of hair loss, early diagnosis and a culturally sensitive approach from healthcare providers are crucial. Don't hesitate to seek a dermatologist who understands Black hair and can provide accurate diagnosis and tailored treatment plans. You can also explore camouflage techniques, like synthetic fibres and colour-matched makeup, while managing the condition. Remember, your hair journey is unique, and support is available.

Scalp health is fundamental to hair health, and certain conditions are more common or present differently in African American individuals.

• Seborrheic Dermatitis (SD): This is a common skin condition that causes flaky, itchy, red patches on the scalp (dandruff). In African American girls, hair extensions and infrequent hair oil use were significantly linked to SD. This might seem counterintuitive if you're used to moisturising your scalp with oils, but some oils, when used too heavily or infrequently, can contribute to buildup that worsens SD. Regular shampooing is vital to manage this condition because low wash frequency allows sebum (scalp oil) levels to increase, which can lead to harmful components that increase scalp issues. Regular washing significantly reduces dandruff, itch, and dryness.
  

• Tinea Capitis (TC): This is a fungal infection of the scalp that can cause scaly, itchy patches and hair loss. It's particularly common in children. While certain hair care practices like cornrows and hair oil use were studied, no significant association was found between them and tinea capitis. However, maintaining a clean scalp is always important for preventing fungal infections.
  

If you're experiencing persistent flaking, itching, or redness on your scalp, it’s always best to consult a dermatologist. They can help identify the specific condition and recommend appropriate treatments that accommodate your cultural preferences and hair care routine.

This is where we get real, unapologetically real. Many hair products, especially those marketed to Black women, contain chemicals that can have serious health implications beyond just your hair. This isn't about fear-mongering; it's about empowering you with knowledge so you can protect yourself and your family.

Many of these chemicals are known as Endocrine Disrupting Chemicals (EDCs). EDCs mess with your hormones, which are like the body’s messengers controlling everything from growth and metabolism to mood and reproduction. Even very small amounts, much lower than traditionally considered "safe," can cause harm, and these effects might not show up until years later, or even affect future generations. This is particularly concerning because Black women often face higher exposure to these chemicals due to targeted marketing and cultural beauty practices.

Beyond EDCs, some chemicals are linked to cancer (carcinogens) or can cause allergic reactions and respiratory problems like asthma. The sad truth is, current regulations in places like the U.S. don't always keep up with the science, meaning many harmful chemicals are still allowed in products without clear labelling or sufficient testing.

You might be thinking, "But how am I supposed to know what's in these products?" And you're right, product labels can be incredibly confusing and often don't disclose all ingredients, especially in "fragrance" mixtures. That’s why we need to become label detectives and support brands that are transparent about their ingredients.

Let's break down some of the most concerning chemicals you might find in hair products:

• Formaldehyde and Formaldehyde-Releasing Preservatives (FRPs): These are known carcinogens (cancer-causing agents) and can cause skin irritation and allergies. They are often used in hair-smoothing treatments (like Brazilian Keratin Treatments) and certain preservatives. Unfortunately, salon products are often exempt from clear labelling laws, so you might not even know they're present. Look out for ingredients like formaldehyde, quaternium-15, DMDM hydantoin, imidazolidinyl urea, diazolidinyl urea, sodium hydroxymethylglycinate, and 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol (bromopol). Quaternium-15 itself is a skin toxicant and allergen, especially for those regularly exposed, like salon workers. These are banned or restricted in some countries, but not universally.
  

• Parabens: These are EDCs that can mimic estrogen in the body. They are common preservatives found in many cosmetics and personal care products. Studies have shown that avoiding products with parabens on the label can lead to lower levels of these chemicals in your body.
  

• Phthalates: Often hidden in "fragrance" or found in hair sprays, gels, and relaxers, phthalates are EDCs that can affect reproductive health and development. Some have been linked to potential breast cancer proliferation. Diethyl phthalate (DEP) is a common one found in hair products.
  

• Fragrance (Parfum): This is a huge umbrella term that can hide hundreds of undisclosed chemicals, including EDCs, carcinogens, and allergens. It's a major cause of allergic reactions and can contain things like synthetic musks (which are EDCs) and even toluene. Avoiding products with "fragrance" or "parfum" is a powerful step towards reducing your exposure to hidden toxins.
  

• P-Phenylenediamine (PPD): Found in many hair dyes, particularly permanent ones, PPD is a common allergen that can cause severe skin reactions and is a potential carcinogen. It can also be especially risky for salon workers due to frequent exposure.
  

• Coal Tar: Used in some anti-dandruff shampoos and hair dyes, coal tar is a known human carcinogen.
  

• 1,4-Dioxane: This is often a contaminant formed during the manufacturing process, rather than an intentionally added ingredient, so it might not be listed on labels. It’s a probable human carcinogen and an allergen.
  

• Resorcinol: Found in some hair dyes and bleaching products, it’s an allergen and a potential thyroid disruptor. Thyroid hormones are crucial for hair growth, so disrupting them can lead to hair loss.
  

• Other EDCs: Keep an eye out for ingredients like triclosan (an antibacterial agent linked to hormone disruption and allergies), benzophenones (like BP-3, a UV filter and EDC), octinoxate (another UV filter and EDC), and certain "butylated compounds" like BHT and BHA (antioxidants that are EDCs). Even some silicones (like D4, D5, D6) found in conditioners and styling products can be EDCs. Polyacrylamide and ethanolamine compounds (MEA, DEA, TEA) are also chemicals of concern, linked to various health impacts. And watch out for PFAS "forever chemicals" which can be found in some cosmetics and personal care products.
  

The important thing to remember is that you have the power to choose. Educate yourself, read labels, and demand better from the beauty industry.

From the loosest waves (Type 3) to the tightest coils (Type 4C), our philosophy is for everyone. All hair needs moisture and gentle care to thrive. We provide knowledge that you can adapt to your specific hair porosity, density, and texture to celebrate its unique characteristics.

This is the golden rule of natural hair care!

• Moisturizing (Hydrating): This is the process of getting water into your hair strands. Water is the only true moisturizer. The best way to do this is by washing your hair or spritzing it with water. Products like aloe vera juice and leave-in conditioners with water as the first ingredient help with hydration.

• Sealing: This is the process of trapping that water/moisture in. Natural butters (like Shea or Mango Butter) and oils (like Jojoba, Olive, or Avocado Oil) are sealants. They create a barrier on your hair strand to keep the water from escaping, keeping it moisturized for longer.

• LOC Method: Stands for Liquid, Oil, Cream. After washing, you apply a water-based liquid (like a leave-in spray), then seal with an oil, and follow up with a cream or butter for extra hold and sealing. This works great for high-porosity hair that loses moisture quickly.

• LCO Method: Stands for Liquid, Cream, Oil. Here, you apply the cream after the liquid and use the oil as the final sealant. This is often preferred by those with low-porosity hair, as the oil creates the final barrier against the environment.

Shrinkage is a sign of healthy, elastic hair! It shows your hair can bounce back from stretching. To showcase your length:

• Stretched Styles: Techniques like braid-outs, twist-outs, and banding gently stretch the hair.

• Tension Blow Dry: Use a blow dryer on a low-heat, low-speed setting with a comb attachment to stretch the roots of your hair while leaving the ends coily.

• Embrace It!: Remember, shrinkage is beautiful and part of the magic of our hair. Some styles, like a defined Wash-and-Go or a TWA (Teeny Weeny Afro), look best with maximum shrinkage.

Patience and the right tools are key. Never detangle your hair when it's dry.

1. Saturate: Work in sections and make sure your hair is fully saturated with a natural conditioner or a DIY mix of aloe vera and water. This provides "slip."

1. Finger Detangle First: Gently use your fingers to feel for large knots and separate them. This is the most gentle method.

1. Use a Wide-Tooth Comb: After finger detangling, use a wide-tooth comb, starting from your ends and slowly working your way up to the roots. Never rake the comb from root to tip in one go.

• Two-Strand Twists: Simple, easy to install, and can be worn for weeks.

• Chunky Box Braids: Fewer braids mean less tension on the scalp and a quicker install time.

• Fulani or Simple Straight-Back Cornrows: Classic, elegant, and keeps hair neatly tucked away.

• Buns and Updos: A simple high puff or a twisted bun is a perfect daily protective style.

• Use a Defining Cream: A natural flaxseed gel or a rich shea butter-based cream will provide hold.

• Start on Damp, Not Wet Hair: Applying product to damp (not sopping wet) hair often results in less frizz and better definition.

• Smaller Sections: The smaller the twists or braids, the more defined and longer-lasting the resulting "out" style will be.

• Ensure Ends are Smooth: Make sure the ends of your twists/braids are smooth and coiled around your finger to prevent frizzy ends.

• Protect at Night: Sleep with your hair in a high "pineapple" puff and cover it with a satin or silk scarf or bonnet.